A Moveable Feast and Fleurie (Beaujolais cru)

Hemingway’s memoir of 1920s Paris is a book about being young, broke and ravenous for everything, and it calls for a wine you would find in a zinc-topped café. Fleurie, among the prettiest of the Beaujolais crus, is bright with red cherry and violets and costs very little.

It is the opposite of a showy wine. Like Hemingway’s sentences, it is clean and direct, and it gets better the more simply you treat it — a little chilled, a hunk of bread and cheese, a notebook nearby.